By Dray Breezy

Feb 5, 2021

On our last skincare episode we discussed cleansers, toners, emulsions, vit C serums and moisturizers/sunblock. Those are the basics. Now let’s get into anti-aging and reversing some of that skin damage! Exfoliants are the name of the game!

Exfoliants

Exfoliating is necessary for undoing skin damage and keeping your pores unclogged. Regular use of exfoliants will give your skin the glow that apparently only pregnant women get. Three are three different types of exfoliants that I’ll discuss in this episode, AHA,BHA, and Tretinoins but there are much, much more.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid

AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acid. AHA’s are derived from sugar cane or other plant acids and are often referred to as fruit acids. The Mario Badescu’s glycolic acid toner that I use is a prime example of a product that fits into this category. AHA’s help shed dead skin and stimulate collagen production that will help decrease fine lines and subtle signs of aging. I personally find AHA’s  are the least harsh on my skin. The Kojic Acid soap that I swear by is also classified as an AHA.

Beta Hydroxy Acid

BHA’s stands for beta-hydroxy acid. These probably are most well known through salicylic acid, which is in EVERY acne-fighting topical medication. My history with salicylic acid is bumpy (pun intended). I remember trying proactiv early  in high school and not really seeing any noticeable effects other than burning the shit outta my skin, in fact that has always been my experience with salicylic acid. It wasn’t until I incorporated retinol into my skin care routine that I began to see some changes to my skin. Research shows that BHA’s are great for fighting acne bacteria, clogged pores, blemishes, and enlarged pores. 

Tretinoin (Retin-A)

Tretinoin is a form of Vitamin A that was developed at the University of Pennsylvania in the 1960’s. After using Accutane, I knew I needed to use a product that could reproduce those effects and continue to fight my acne. I discovered Retin-A which is arguably the most prescribed acne medication in history. It comes in three doses, 2.5%, 5%, and 10%. It took me years to work my way up to 10% and I can’t stress how important it is to listen to your skin and not rush the process! Retin-A is very harsh and will fuck your skin all way up if you try to start off with the strongest dose!

Retin-A is like most drugs, you have to build up a tolerance. So start off with the lowest dose, 2-3 times per week and then slowly increase weekly usage. When you are comfortable, upgrade to a higher percentage, and slow down weekly usage as your skin adjusts. I wish I could show you all the damage I did to my skin trying to rush through this process, I’m talking full on chemical burn damage. Not as bad as my Nair fiasco though. Retin-A will cause your skin to peel ALOT!! Make sure all the dead skin is off your face before you apply makeup because if not you will look all the way crazy. You’ll look like one of the extras in Michael Jackson’s Thriller video. Retin-A will also make your skin much more susceptible to sun damage so skipping sunblock is non-optional. I don’t use a dermatologist for my prescription, I found an incredible resource called All Day Chemist and their products haven’t let me down.

Learn about Skin care and more in The Breeze Podcast right above!

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